Wednesday, March 31, 2021

Cheese was big for monks

I love cheese - hard, soft, blue or stinky - and Camembert is one of mankind's greatest inventions. I have discovered Medieval monks loved cheese too and it has been fun to investigate  their part in its origin and development. I hope this little article will come to mind next time you enjoy your Wensleydale or a fine Munster.

I always believed that it was an Arab travelling over the desert on his camel who first discovered that the milk in his travel bag seemed to have gone off, and to his surprise found this strange aberration tasted rather good. The Arabs did bring their goats and cheese-making implements into southern France around the 8th century, but cheesemaking was around long before this. The Romans knew about it and it may have been the Christian monasteries who perpetuated it along with so much classical culture, after the fall of the Roman Empire in the 5th century. The little video below is a good introduction.




Cheese became so important in monastic life because it fitted : sheep, cows, goats in their farms provided an obvious source ;  it could be part of their duty  to care for it ; and it was good as a meat substitute. 

The Rule of St Benedict include labor (Latin - work - the work of your own hands). Here was something even a choir monk could do eg. assist with storage and preservation. The Kitchener would oversee the care of the cheeses : ensuring no sticky bottoms, patting and rubbing or washing to stem growth of unwanted mould or mites. The Refectorian (who assisted the Cellarer) would have as part of his job to sample cheeses. Monasteries needed to be self-sufficient as far as possible, so farms (called granges) developed. Benedictine monasteries tended to delegate their granges to tenants, whereas Cistercians ran theirs directly using lay brothers. The Cistercians were the most important Order in the history of cheese. Their foundations in secluded rural valleys also embraced centrally controlled large granges.

Monks are particularly known for what is called washed rind cheeses. There is a legend that says monks saw mould growing on cheese and so they scrubbed it with diluted alcohol or brine. They may have done this several times and then discovered that the the rind became reddish orange and emitted a new stink. This was because a bacteria called Brevibacterium linens liked these conditions and grew apace there. It is similar with the sweaty parts of our bodies, and hence stinky socks or bad armpits can remind you of these  cheeses. Munster from Alsace Lorraine is an early example from around 1370. Epoisses (washed in brine and brandy) from Cistercian monasteries in Burgundy is another.

The milk produced could become cheese or butter. It would be easier to create these in the granges rather than transport the milk to the monastery itself. The actual making of the cheese was often done by women (just like beer). In monastic accounts they are known as deyes. Originally deye meant woman servant but their common involvement with cheesemaking led to their workplace becoming known as dairy. Katherine Dowe was the deye at the Cistercian Sibton Abbey in Suffolk. She had an assistant called Alice Harys and three servants. We know that in 1507 she earnt £1 a year, Alice 10 shillings and the servants 8 shillings. King Henry VIII spent £7000 on 12 days of Christmas celebration two years later!    Katherine was good at her job and in  6 years their cow herd increased from 66 to 166. It is also recorded that in one year she 156 lbs of  cheese and 3 gallons of butter   per cow. Cheese was big business as we shall see.

If women ruled the cheese making we can wonder how the lay brothers felt about this and how they behaved. The Premonstratensians decreed that women who worked at their granges had to be "such of whom no possibility of suspicion could possibly be entertained. The Prior of the Augustinian  Bolton Priory in Yorkshire wanted only "old and ill-favoured women to be employed".

Monastic cheese making was international. Recipes and methods travelled across Europe. In particular Cistercian monasteries were interconnected and knowledge was exchanged. Wensleydale may have originated at Jervaux Abbey  in Yorkshire (Cistercian) but was it from a recipe at Citeaux Abbey in Burgundy and was it originally a creamy blue like Roquefort? There is also a tradition that Irish monks took cheesemaking recipes across to Germany before the 11th century. 

Cheese became an important part of the monastic economy. Payment  could be made in cheese. The English Priory of Ogbourne in Wiltshire sent 8550 lbs of cheese as rent to the Abbot of Bec (Normandy) in payment for stewardship of land owned by him. The cheese industry in the country was greatly helped by monastic participation. Royalty bought their cheeses. For example Queen Elizabeth, wife of Henry VII   regularly bought cheese from Llanthony Priory (Monmouthshire) in the early 16th century. 

Today there is still cheese made on monastic premises. The little video below tells about Chimay, a Trappist (modern Cistercian)house. 



This one below introduces Chimay's  wonderful strong beer and the cheese.








The book below written by a cheesemonger  (published 2019)is highly recommended! I must have met him selling cheese on Borough Market in London. A really good read.

                                      


Friday, January 29, 2021

Silence with Hand Signals


Monks have a tradition  of silence. Man is a social animal. Why was silence so important? How could such complex organisations as monasteries run without speech? In fact they did not and monks did not make a vow of silence. Instead from the 6th century many communities followed the Rule of St Benedict and from this it became common for chattering to be prohibited  during religious services and practices, at mealtimes and overnight in the dormitory. Otherwise, as we shall see, speech was to be avoided except at strictly specified times. Exceptions would be made for monastic officials and in an emergency.  So must then consider which language they would use. We will discover that this was in a variety of tongues  supplemented by use of their hands!



From the earliest days of hermitic monasticism in Egypt silence was paramount. When communities were formed it is believed this continued. St Benedict in the 6th chapter of his Rule from 6th century Italy makes it clear that silence is a virtue, that speech is to be limited and furthermore “loose talk, idle words and talk that stimulates laughter ,we condemn this with a permanent ban in all places”. The Bible supplies plenty of examples of bridling the tongue and the value of silence. The monastic life was to be  quiet and meditative and the house a place of silence. The Devil worked through idle chatter. Voices should only be raised in prayer and praise. Meals were to be taken silently broken only by one of their number reading aloud from an ‘improving’ book eg saints’ lives. Keeping silent avoided the sins of the tongue.


It is always difficult to generalise about anything for all Orders in all periods, and the practice of silence  is no exception.  However the Rule of Benedict can be seen as the common  source for practice in Europe.There would always be  times and places when speech was allowed and it was a matter of degree and custom. If we consider the main medieval monastic orders   (Benedictine, reformed Benedictine or Cluniac, Cistercian, Carthusian) and the so-called mendicant orders  who went out into the world preaching etc.(Franciscans, Dominicans, Augustinians, Carmelites) they all valued silence. 


 The Benedictines, and later the Cluniacs  and Cistercians, aimed to follow the Rule of St Benedict. Chatter was to be avoided during services, Through musical chant, the  Cluniacs believed they were imitating angels. Meals were  to be silent save for the chosen readings  of the day.  At night there was to be silence in the dormitory. Silence was prescribed in the kitchen and  the Infirmarer was only  to speak if treating a patient. This all sounds  harsh and incredible to us now. In practice there must have been exceptions and breaches of discipline.  The Abbott and Prior were allowed to speak as necessary and senior officials could as part of their job eg to workmen or guests. In emergencies like the fire at Bury St Edmunds Abbey on 23/June 1195 the alarm had to be raised by a gong and pandemonium followed as the shrine went up in flames. 


The  Cistercians decried unnecessary speech in the daily Chapter meeting  and in places of labour.e.g.cloister. In the Refectory silence at the Abbot’s table(except with guests).Incidentally Cistercian nuns had to be silent at meals and at night, following the Rule. In 1242 the Cistercian General Chapter decreed that no nun was to speak with anyone outside of their Convent except through a heavily barred window. Conversation by certain Cistercian conversi (lay brothers) was supposedly  controlled too. Amazingly at rural granges (Cistercian farms)  dialogue by lay brother farm workers with  travellers was to be limited to a greeting or give to give directions! 


Warming room at Lacock Abbey



So where and when was conversation allowed?  In Benedictine foundations the warming room was the most likely place allowing some conversation. Along with the kitchen and the infirmary it contained a fireplace and they could talk there for limited periods. Was this like the Common Room in a University Hall?  Certainly this must have been an attractive spot with its fire. It seems that during periods of particular seriousness like Lent conversation was even forbidden in the warming room. Lacock Abbey in Wiltshire has a good surviving example of a warming room. Daily Chapter was where matters for the day and discipline were aired with the whole assembly of monks present , and were  strictly regulated. Protocol demanded that only one monk was to speak at a time. There was no side chatter. but there might be a chance of debate. This went too far at St Mary’s Abbey in York in October 1132 when two factions rowed over observances, and the prior’s reforming party had to be ejected. from the meeting.  Here St Albans in Abbot William of Trumpington came under criticism from his monks over alleged associations with laymen and his exile of some of our monks to abbey daughter houses.. 


By special permission conversation might occur in the cloister. In the time after Chapter in the morning before the late morning office of Sext it became accepted that monks could converse. Sometimes  when monks were working in the cloister in outdoor study silence might be broken, but it might be limited to reciting psalms or spiritual topics.  For example the Cluniacs by custom allowed this which led to the 12th century Cistercian,  Idung of Prufening, to claim this deteriorated into rowdiness comparable to a tavern. (He may have been rather biased.....the Cistercians did not approve of many Cluniac practices). There was some relaxation too after the regular bloodletting which all monks had to undergo several times a year to restore  balance in their body, clear the brain and curb sensual feelings.


The Carthusians, each living in their own cell only seem to have sanctioned relaxation of the rule of silence on Sundays and Church feast days with one hour of conversation in the cloister, including with visitors. If a monk died consolation could be given. 


Monasteries would often fall short of the ideal place of silence, peace and tranquility. First, every monastery would be frequently disturbed by the amount of building work which must have gone on during the summer season when work could be undertaken. Towers and walls fell down ; there was essential repair work ; extensions needed because of extra numbers, keeping up with changing architectural styles and the whim of  the abbot. Changes made here at St Albans  after the October 1323 collapse of part of the nave of the church and various extensions to visitor accommodation must have been very noisy and disruptive Second, the Rule laid down hospitality to visitors as a primary duty. If a monastic house became renowned for this, disruption and noise could be expected. This was particularly true at St Albans and caused continual financial problems. Third, if a house was on a pilgrimage route favoured by the King or ruling class it would suffer disruption.. St Albans had all three of these disadvantages.


 If we accept that Abbots and Priors and other key officials were allowed to speak for purposes of administration and with guests, and the ordinary monks were constrained to speak only as above, some other method of communication was needed. It likely involved meals. Think “will you pass the salt” and hand signals were the solution. John of Salerno (a 13th century Dominican) reckoned this language was “of the fingers and eyes”. St Benedict himself said in Rule 38”whatever is wanted for eating and drinking the brethren should pass one to another, so that no one need ask for anything.If, however, something is wanted, it should be asked for by some sign or sound rather than by speaking”. What developed via hand signals is not truly a sign language. It is not related to the rather amusing current contortions of sign linguists we see added to some national news channels.They use a version of a language for the deaf, the first of which did not appear until the 16th century. We are concerned with  a visual kinetic system of communication by gestures for monks with normal hearing.. 


Cluny Abbey : a model showing the whole site at its greatest extent in
the 12th century


It is generally held that hand signals were first used by monks  in Burgundy from the 10th century and were in use at the Cluny Abbey  during the abbacy of  St Odo  (926-942).Cluny produced  a sign collection upon which all others were subsequently based. Lists of hand signals from the 11th century have been found  in the customaries of Bernhard (1075) and Ulrich (1083).for use in the instruction of novice monks There are 118 signals in this sign lexicon ( list) Each sign indicates how it should be made and gives a  rationale. For example “For the sign of bread, make a circle using the thumbs and index fingers, the reason being the bread is usually round.” From such descriptions we can gain useful information about their way of life. The list is divided into four groups : food, clothing, the Divine Office and a miscellaneous group covering people, officials, actions, and some abstract concepts. It is mainly a list of nouns, very few verbs  and no pronouns or ways of connecting signals. This is consistent with monastic discipline : only having signals to cover the most basic everyday needs (e.g. at table) and for instruction and reprimand.  The largest list with 359, many of which relate to food, was by William of Hirsau for the monastery there.


The oldest and  most famous English  list  came from mid 11th century Christ Church Canterbury. It is the only list in the vernacular Old English and is bound together with a copy of the Rule of St Benedict also in Old English. It is held in the British Library as MS Cotton Tiberius A iii.  This lexicon  has 127 hand signals, many originating from Cluny. These are common items and everyday actions. The list can be divided as follows:-


1-7 Officials   e.g. 4 cellarer

8-28 Books vestments for Mass  e.g. 13 vestment

29-43 Other church service books  e.g. 29 bible

44-48 Chapter house  e.g. 48 scourge

 49-86 Refectory food and drink   e.g.  72 oyster

87-110 Clothing and personal items   e.g. 100 comb,  98 soap . 102  underpants.94  toilet.

111-117 Cloister  activities e.g.114 large writing tablet

118-127 Outside persons   e.g.126 layman


I had fun taking some pictures with the help of my wife. The bread sign was pretty universal indicating circular bread or rolls which may have been the most common. The knife sign should be compared to the Ely one later : very similar. The clasping of hands together seemed to me perfect for expressing the joy of a mug or two of beer. The grasping of the stomach indicated that the monk needed the toilet possibly with a strained expression...


Canterbury #54 Bread
Canterbury #55 Knife


Canterbury #85
Canterbury #94 Toilet


Comparison of the Cluny original with the Canterbury one shows a more varied diet at Cluny but local favourites at Canterbury like plums, oysters, sloe berries and beer. Gerald of Wales experienced the feast of the Holy Trinity at Christ Church Canterbury in 1180 and was far from impressed. “There were the monks...all of them gesticulating with fingers, hands and arms, and whistling one to another in lieu of speaking, all extravagating in a manner more free and frivolous than was seemly” He compared it to a dumbshow and thought it would have been less distracting if they had spoken to each other. It is interesting to note the whistling and remember Benedict had said “some sign or sound rather than by speaking”. I wonder what other sounds may have been used. More research?


By the 16th century most houses will have written down their own local rules and practices in what are called  Customaries. These might include hand signal lexicons. Few have survived. There are two from Bury St Edmunds, one from the Victorine canons of St Thomas’ Abbey Dublin, one from the Briggetine nouns at Syon.


Perhaps the most interesting list is from Ely Cathedral Priory in the 14th century. It is quite similar to the Canterbury list and again is mainly nouns, a few adjectives and verbs, This guide from David sherlock is invaluable. He also wrote other articles and was a prominent local historian around Bury St Edmunds.












There are 109 signals which can be divided as follows:-


1-15 Divine Office   e.g. 1 book   2 missal

16-47 Food and drink  e.g.16 bread

48-65  Clothing and personal items  e.g.59 knife

66-71 Saints and martyrs  e.g. 68 martyr

72-92 Monastic officials etc  e.g.84 cellarer

93-109 Every day in the cloister. e.g.102 agreeing 103 disagreeing  107 something bad.


Ely #59 Knife
Ely #108 Something bad




It seems that sometimes in practice two signals were  joined together. For example  the sign for salmon would be preceded by the general sign for fish. 


Ely #23 General sign for fish meant to be like a swimming fish.


Ely # I disagree - a flick of the fingers - hopefully not overused...


The Cistercians  adopted hand signals in the 12th century and Cistercian lexicons have been found which are  similar in content to the Cluny original.  Indeed the Trappists (reformed Cistercians) were still using hand signals up to the 1960s employing a lexicon from 1624.. In 1152 the Cistercian General Chapter laid out punishments for those who used words rather than signals during meals. Visiting monks might be excused however through ignorance of local practice. Sometimes the lexicons were written in verse : the longest one has 216 signs. This may sound bizarre but it was likely  a mnemonic device and may have helped novices to memorise them. There were some new signals : e.g. lay brothers, heretics, pagans. The lexicons were still mainly nouns so there was still fear of unnecessary use in cloister and dormitory through too many miscellaneous abstract signals, In a 13th century vision of  Purgatory novice being made to see the terrible punishment awaiting them for misdeeds including using free-style sign language for lewd or stupid words. 


Probably there  were  more signals which we do not now know about. The lexicons contain the official signals. We do not know about local practice. We can conjecture that some houses had more , the details of which were lost or never written down. The signals do not include pronouns but I believe they must have had simple methods of indicating who or what was intended by pointing for instance .There was a lot of common practice across monasteries and there are direct similarities in the Canterbury and Ely list. E.g.bread. This would have been helpful if monks  moved to other houses. However local  practice will have varied. We know this because visiting Cistercian  monks who used unknown signals or speech would not be punished like the inmates. 



Monastic foundations will have contained many of the most literate persons of the day. Latin was the language of liturgy and was universal across much of Christian Europe. Was it  used in everyday monastic speech? After the Norman conquest in 1066 there were three major languages in use in England: Middle English, Anglo-Norman (like French) or Latin. Middle English began to develop from Old English from that time, and  then in the 15th century  into Early Modern English. The top monastic officials and scholars in monasteries will have  been able to use Latin to converse in our period (1066-1540)It is very unlikely that others in monasteries could do so. How would it have been taught? Information about schooling and teaching of Latin to novices is hard to come by. Singing the liturgy and prayers do not necessarily imply understanding and would not be much help in the conduct of everyday life. Reading, understanding and speaking a language are different skills. Learning Latin would have been gruelling, as I well remember from six years study myself in a grammar school. Not all monks would be capable of it. It was therefore an elitist thing to be able to converse in Latin.  I am convinced that Latin was not the language of the cloisters and the majority of conversation would have been in the vernacular (local language). The language for discussions at Morning Chapter  would have  been decided locally. Monks using their few valuable moments talking  in the Warming Room will have used their most natural local language rather than do battle with the complexities of Latin grammar.




Selected sources

Barrau(Julie) Did monks actually speak Latin? in Practices of oral communication in Western Europe 11th-13th century. ed. S.Vanderputtern. (Brepols, 2011)

Bottomley, (Frank) The abbey explorer's guide.(Otley,1991).

Bruce (Scott G.) The origins of Cistercian sign language. Citeaux Commentarii Cistercienses 52 (2001) 193-209.

Jones (Terry) Medieval lives (London, 2004)

Kerr (Julie) Life in the medieval cloister (London,2009)

Knowles (David) Religious Orders in England vol 1-3 (Cambridge, 2008)

Sherlock (David) Anglo-Saxon monastic sign language at Christ Church, Canterbury. Archaeologia Catinia, 107, (1989) 1-27.

Sherlock (David) Signs for silence : the sign language of the monks of Ely in the Middle Ages.(Ely,1992).



















Wednesday, December 9, 2020

Diet Part 3 How they ate

Monastic meals were stylised and meant to be formal and ritualistic. We will investigate what monks ate and drank in other posts. Now let’s try to get a picture of how meals were organised. It is hard to generalise about conduct over many places and monastic traditions over a period as long as 11th to 16th century. However, apart from the Carthusians who ate alone, I believe a single pattern can be observed based on the Rule of St Benedict. I shall be working with this ideal and tracing some deviations which inevitably emerged whether Benedictine or Cistercian communities.

 Meals were taken in the main Frater (sometimes called Refectory). Monasteries were the only places during the Dark and Middle Ages which had a specific eating room. Separate dining rooms did not otherwise appear until the Renaissance villa in Italy. The monastic Frater  was usually situated in the main cloister and opposite the church. Generally large and often impressive architecturally, it was an important place. 

A surviving example is the former Frater of Worcester Cathedral Priory, now used as a hall for the King’s School. It is 120 long by 32 feet wide. 


Interior of King's School Hall, Worcester(from
Worcester Cathedral and Library Archive blog)

Exterior of King's School Hall, Worcester (from
Worcester Cathedral and Library  Archive blog)

The Frater at the great Yorkshire Cistercian Abbey at Rievaulx is 126 feet long and 80 feet high. 


Frater at Rievaulx today (above) and how it may have been
(English Heritage)

More often at ground level in Benedictine, in Cluniac and Cistercian houses there are examples of first floor level, possibly to emulate Christ’s upper room Last Supper.

There was a raised platform at the end opposite the entrance. Here would be the table for the presiding person and the senior members of the institution, plus sometimes guests. The other tables would be placed along the side walls. In one wall was a raised pulpit from which a member of the community would read during the meal. Near to the door to the cloister there would be cupboards for linen and napkins and spoons. The central area in the Frater was often left empty so that all monks around the edges could be seen. The main kitchen was often attached and communication took place through a hatch into the refectory or by a passage. Particularly in Cistercian houses, kitchens would be placed so that the lay brothers’ refectory could also be served from the same kitchen. The lay brothers (or conversi) had their own refectory and would also eat in silence but with no readings. 

 

Procession into dinner

Dinner was the main meal and usually followed High Mass and Sext in tthe Church. Monks would gather in the cloister and wash their hands in the lavatorium just outside the door to the Frater(usually a trough lined with lead with brass taps and drain pipes). At Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire you can see a series of blind arches with stone benches that would have housed lead-lined semi-circular basins each having a tap with running water for washing hands. Then monks would have dried their hands with towels from the towel cupboard in the outer wall of the nearby warming room. 

 

Lavatorium at Fountains (from Cistercians in Yorkshire Project)

They would collect spoons and napkins as they entered and take their places facing inwards at the tables around the wall, leaving space behind them for the servers to supply the food. A monk would likely have his own knife, which he would carry with him. Spoons were more rare and at Westminster they were given out at each meal and collected afterwards. Forks were unknown in British monasteries. Knives, spoons and hands would be used as needed.

 


Grace would be said and then the reading would begin soon after the presider sat down. Silence was expected. The only exception might be if there were guests the presider might speak to them. Usually a passage was read from the Bible (in Latin) eg the four Books of Kings, Job or the Books of Maccabees. None these sound like an aid to digestion....Otherwise it might be a part of the life of a Saint. The reading was to be done slowly but distinctly, repeating any really important passage. Monks had to be quiet during the reading. Courses would follow swiftly one after the other. A bell might be used to have food taken away. 

Refectory of Alcobaca Abbey in Portugal. Note the
amazing reading gallery on left. Closeup below.
From Motorhome Europe blog.



  The ideal monastic meal was like a ritual and we can detect the first instances of table           manners at the time.  However, it is hard to believe that meals were always quiet or               that the reader was audible, particularly as discipline was relaxed in the later Middle             Ages.

 

Convent of Christ, Tomar, Portugal.
Note table arrangement and pulpit

We can get a picture of what went on by the rules which have been recorded. Bear in mind that these rules were not universal.

  •  Nuts were not to be cracked with teeth, but eased open with a knife. However if everyone had nuts they could go ahead and crack all together! 
  • Monks were to eat their food calmly, cleanly, cheerfully. 
  • They should not let their eyes wander. 
  • They should not sit chin in hand or put hands across the face. 
  • They should sit up straight and keep arms off the table. 
  • No wiping of knife on table cloth before wiping it on bread. 
  • No wiping of teeth on the tablecloth.
When Gerald of Wales, the famous historian and archdeacon of Brecon, visited Christchurch Canterbury in 1180 he has left us with a vivid description of what went on.
"all of them (sic monks) gesticulating with fingers, hands and arms, and whistling to one another in lieu of speaking, all extravagating in a manner more free and frivolous than was seemly....." I shall return to hand signals in a later post. This was in 1180 the golden monastic period. We can imagine what it may have been like in 1480...

 Generally food was blessed at the meal and leftovers could be given to other people - possibly lay brothers, or the poor who used to gather at the gate. Unblessed food went to dogs or pigs or other animals. After eating monks had to wash hands in the Lavatorium, waiting in the cloister until all had finished. They might then chant the Miserere (Ps 51) on the way to the Church and their next Office. Readers and servers then took their meal. 

Guests of less importance might eat in the lay brother’s refectory, if there was one. A marshal would guard against pilfering, unruly behaviour and items thrown on the floor. Trestle tables would likely be set up after the guests sat down and then removed later.



Our eating arrangements here in St Albans had the  Frater on the north side of the main cloister. I spent some time this summer trying to make out evidence of any outlines, because the unusually dry hot summer suggests the layout of the abbey. 




Imagine monks lining up for dinner
Cloister edge and Abbot's lodging off to the left
against the nave wall.


Sources

Bottomley, F. Abbey explorer’s guide (Otley, 1995)
Braun, H. English abbeys {London, 1971)
Clark, J.G. Benedictines in the Middle Ages (Woodridge, 2011)
Clark, J.G. and Preest, D. eds. Deeds of the Abbots of St Albans (Boydell Press, 2019)
Crossley, F.H. The English abbey 3rd ed, (London,1949)
Freeman, M. St Albans, a history. (Lancaster, 2008)
Goodman, R. et al Tudor monastery farm : life in rural England 500 years ago (London, 2013)
Harvey, B. Living and dying in England, the monastic experience, 1100—1540 (Oxford, 193)
Jones, T. Medieval lives (London, 2004)
Kerr, J. Life in the Medieval cloister (London, 2009)
Kerr, J. Monastic hospitality : the Benedictines in England c1070 to c1250 (Boydell Press)
Knowles, D. Religious Orders in England vol 1-3 (Cambridge, 2008)
Leroux-Dhuys, J-F.  Cistercian abbeys : history and architecture (Cologne, 1998)
McAleavey, T. Life in a Medieval abbey  (London, 1995)
Parry, A. ed. Rule of St Benedict (Leominster, 1990)
Paston-Williams, S. Art of dining : a history of cooking and eating.(Oxford, 1996)
Rosewell, R The Medieval monastery (Oxford, 2011)
Still, M. The abbot and the rule : religious life at St Albans 1290-1349 (Aldershot, 2002)
Strong, R. Feast : a history of grand eating. (London, 2002)
Williams, D.H. The Cistercians in the early Middle Ages (1998)
Woolgar,  Culture of food in England 1200-1500 ( Yale, 2016)





Diet Part 2 - How it worked out

 The well known report by the famous historian and archdeacon of Brecon, Gerald of Wales being entertained at the Benedictine Cathedral Priory of Christchurch Canterbury on Trinity Sunday 1179, he apparently was treated to 16 courses! Such laxity and much worse was happening. Cluniac monks had been eating meat in closed off quarters. Based on practice at  the Abbey in Cluny in the 10th century they had represented a reformed Benedictine monasticism. In later posts we shall explore their contribution to art and performance of the liturgy. Yet here we begin to see suggestions that they had gone to seed. Bernard of Clairvaux certainly thought so. A group of Benedictines from Molesme had broken away and founded what became a new Order at Citeaux (Burgundy) : the Cistercian Order. It was dedicated to strict observance of St Benedict’s Rule. Bernard of Clairvaux arrived at Citeaux in 1110 and was the great founder of the Order which spread very rapidly over Europe. Back to basics : Walter Daniel the monk chronicler spoke of his pound of bread and pint of beans a day at the great Cistercian monastery of Rievaulx in the mid 12th century. Food there could be more bitter than wormwood. 



St Bernard of Clairvaux was very critical of the Cluniacs, accusing Peter the Venerable Abbot of Cluny of commending gluttonous feasting, and damning frugality. As for their food “course after course was brought in. Only meat was lacking and to compensate two huge servings of fish were given. ...the cooks prepared everything with such skill and cunning that the four or five dishes already consumed were no hindrance to what was to follow and the appetite was not checked by satiety, the selection of dishes was so exciting that the stomach did not realise that it was being overtaxed”. Sounds good to me  - but not to Bernard. Further he said “wine and white bread, honey-wine and pittances benefit the mind not the soul. The soul is not fattened out of frying pans." He knew many monks in Egypt had served God for a long time without fish. Pepper, ginger, cumin, sage, and all the thousand other spices might please the palate , but they inflamed lust”. He was very hard on himself and he seems to have suffered from a type of extreme anorexia nervosa. He hardly ate, often turning down food, then being paralysed because of lack of nourishment. At one meal he downed a pot of oil oblivious to its not being wine or water. He stank from stale vomit and must have been a trial to his fellows as he retired to his special place to vomit during services. 


Bernard of Clairvaux (Museum, Palma Majorca)


During the 13th century despite the Cistercian reforms, diet in  Benedictine monasteries still became less stringent. Meat was no longer confined to the Infirmary. The rot had set in long before with lard and suet from quadrupeds.The Abbot or Prior no longer ate in the great refectory and ate in his own dining room.This could include meat. It became customary in some places for him to invite selected monks to dine with him  with meat. He would also have important guests. Perhaps there might be nine persons enjoying four courses. Officeholders in the monastery might also eat with him.. A second dining area began to appear  called a misericord. This would likely be the place where sick monks from the Infirmary dined. This rather furtive arrangement meant that all monks got a chance of meat on a regular basis. The refectory still did not serve meat, except when all the community met together for a major celebration. Remember  by now capons chickens, pigeons were not considered meat and offal was ok too. So there might be served three quarters lb meat per person in the refectory or three lbs in the misericord. Other Orders  were already less vigilant with meat eating : for example the Augustinians specified only when it could not be eaten.

 From about 1150 the Cistercians had taken  pittances on board. They were served at the abbot’s discretion and not on more than two consecutive days. Often supplied  by specific donors they were recorded in a register. By the late 14th century the abbey of Zwettl in Austria had these 98 days in a year.





Then In 1336 Pope   Benedict XII acknowledged the reality and changed the rules and meat was allowed to all monks on 3-4 days a week served in the other dining room or misericord in relays. At least 50% of monks were to still eat in the main refectory. Rather than an innovation, this relaxation was likely to have simply regularised existing practice. Cistercian houses by then had also began to less rigorous in control of diet.


I wish I could go into the kind of recipes used. This would be a huge subject and I am already spending 3 posts on diet! To give you a flavour do watch the little video below taken from a series about Historical Cooking in Italy. It is for Medieval Monk's Stuffed-egg soupa.  If you watch you will hear that I have nota made a spelling mistaka. I found this video informative but the accent is absolutely hilarious. Miles better than Captain Bertorelli in Hallo Hallo.






There were exceptions to the good food lifestyle. At Evesham in Worcestershire, Abbot Roger de Norrys was very hard on his monks, and food was so badly organised that they complained to the Papal Legate in 1213 complaining of no regular beans, no beer and terrible bread. Some had maybe died of starvation.


It was customary to lay out a ration of food for a deceased monk for up to a year. Also perhaps 3 rations for what was called the maundy. .All this food and leftovers .(this would only apply to the general dishes and not the pittances)were given to the poor who might gather outside the abbey gateway on a regular basis


Prior's quarter's at Castle Acre, Norfolk



Abbots had their own catering arrangements since they were given permission to divide the land and income of their abbey between abbot and community. They soon had their own staff and kitchen. They became like local gentry. By the 16th century they were entertaining in the same way as a nobleman. They only dined in the refectory with their monks on great occasions. A great feast given at Islip manor house in 1372 by the Abbot of Westminster  for King Edward III apparently required 77 capons, 165 pullets, 2 pheasants, 5 heron,6 egrets, 6 curlews all live from London, spices ,rice, flour, currants, dates, prunes, sugar, salt, 6 gallons of cream, and much  honey. The gardener also supplied all kinds of soft fruit. Then there was the use of silver goblets, fine linen, plate etc loaned  from the Abbey. Sounds slightly over the top!


By the 16th century the previously called pittances had been taken on board and this accounts for the large number of dishes sometimes recorded. They. might include dumplings, pancakes, cakes, special bread and flans. The original generals (lentil stew etc) would still be be put out but the interest and consumption would concentrate on the more exotic dishes. Flans were very popular especially on big occasions : to make 72 flans it took 10 lb cheese, and 350 eggs.


All through post 1066 England  life was as good in a monastery as anywhere unless you were a noble. You lived in an organised environment, were comparatively well fed and housed, had the best toilets around, all without the stresses of the outside world. By the 16th century discipline had declined and the frugality that St. Benedict had required had been eroded. From the evidence of 274 skeletons of the inmates of Merton Priory,  Bermondsey Abbey and St Mary at Tower Hill we can conclude that their calory intake of 6000 a day (or 4500 when fasting)twice the daily average for a man now, implies they were well fed and likely to become obese. A major study of Westminster Abbey monks came to similar conclusions. In the early 16th Century the average monk got 2 lb meat or fish a day, a gallon of ale and a .5 lb loaf of. Read.. Monks there were taller than lay people and teeth were bad. At Canterbury in 1500 the percentage intake of various foods tells the story : 35% bread,25% ale or wine,17% meat, 6% fish, 8.5 milk eggs cheese, 7% suet, 1% oats, 0.5 % vegetables. In Lent 45% bread,33% ale or wine, more fish and dried fruit 0.5 vegetables.



Food in nunneries does not appear to have been markedly different. In the mid 15th century at the great  Barking Abbey on Martinmas 11 Nov a whole hog was to  serve 3 nuns. The Abbess kitchen had at least 13 pigs, and the cellaress was to have another 9-10 pigs killed at this time.


A very interesting website by Dr Christopher Monk called Monk's Modern Medieval Cuisine is well worth looking at to get more information about cooking in the Middle Ages.

The organisation of the provisions was formidable. In charge was the cellarer who had to manage the largest budget on the monastery, covering the provisioning of food and drink  for  the kitchen, bakehouse and brewery, its storage and keep accounts. He would also have to supervise the servants and lay brethren  to achieve these tasks. He would have a sub cellarer to cover in his absence and to assist with.Then there was the kitchener who was in charge of food production and quality control. Kitchens could be enormous, Although usually rectangular the best surviving example at Glastonbury from 1330-40  is circular. There would also be a pantry, buttery, scullery, and a courtyard for fuel and stores. Food sources would include produce from the monastery local farms as payment. The main local source would be their own gardens or orchard on the premises. This mIght include cabbages, turnips, carrots, peas, onions, beans and herbs. Spices imported from abroad became important and expensive. They implied that the house was a wealthy status symbol. Examples of heavy use are Evesham Abbey and Norwich Priory which spent £5 10 6 on spices  at a fair in Boston. Sugar was very expensive and came from Crete and Spain after the 15 century. Honey was the major sweetener.


The Carthusians were the exception. Their monks spent most of their time in their own cells arranged around cloisters and with their own garden behind. Meals were taken in their cells and passed  to them via a hatch. We saw this arrangement recently in the best preserved Carthusian monastery of Buxheim in Germany. No meat was allowed even for the sick. They were afraid that inmates would feign illness!

 

St Albans seems to have been more disciplined in its diet than many. others. However there were problems building up in the use of a Miserichord (second dining room) in John de Cella's time (1195-1214). This was a parlour chamber where meat and alcohol were taken with no restrictions from the Rule. It appears William of Trumpington (1214-35) reinforced the Rule during his abbacy. John de Hertford (1235-1263) was the first abbot to take his food in his own quarters. He caused controversy over retaining the money for the pittances intended for the sick. His predecessor William had done this first and despite promising to change this after an outside visitation, he still retained them. In line with the rule change by Benedict XII Abbot Michael de Mentmore (1336-1349) decreed that half the monks would have meat in the Oriel or Miserichord (second dining room) one day and the other half the next day. There was to be two plentiful courses of meat or fish. No meat was eaten in the main Refectory. This system was said to be fairer as previously here and at other monasteries there had been favouritism. We had our large Refectory and one in the Infirmary and the Abbot will have had one to entertain his numerous guests. There will have been one for the lay brothers too.



Monks are still being charged with obesity in Thailand in the 21st century- so nothing changes!





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