Hospitality : How it worked at St Albans Abbey

This is a developing post. Here is my present take but I hope to revise it in the future.

Facilities for visitors in our Norman Abbey of St Albans soon developed due to Royal patronage, the need to accommodate pilgrims to the shrine of the  Proto Martyr, St.Alban, and as the first one day stopping point north of London. We also gained a good reputation for our hospitality and all this added to our popularity. The dilemma became : where should charity and hospitality part? More visitors led to increased financial burdens, administrative headaches, and noisy disruptions to the daily liturgy. Hospitality was a central part of Benedictine life at our Abbey. The ability to travel and be a guest here was dependent on social status. Those who were not freemen would have to seek permission from their lord to  make a visit. Travelling on foot was very slow and arduous. The more wealthy would travel by horse and might have servants. The reasons for visiting centred on pilgrimage. It might be as an act of contrition to make up for sins ; to give special thanks for a happy event ; to ask for healing of some ailment ; to appeal for help for someone or just to experience the sight of the great abbey and its shrine. 

Site of the Guest Houses and Abbot's Lodging

The Guest Houses

We believe provision for guests was made  by the Norman abbots with the rebuilding of the  Abbey. The interest shown by the Royal family  led Abbot Geoffrey de Gorham (1119-46) to build a large noble hall for the most important guests It had a double roof and a chamber for the Queen alongside. This was highly unusual. Possibly King Stephen and later King Henry II stayed in this Hall. The Queen’s Chamber could have been for Queen Adelaide or Queen Matilda. Later on other monasteries had quarters for a Queen. Ely had a notable example by 1250.

Abbot John de Hertford (1235-63) rebuilt Geoffrey’s Hall  on the same site, as it had become unfit for purpose. This rebuild has been described as a palace (palatium) with its two storeys, adjoining bedrooms, chapel,  fireplaces, chimneys, antechamber and vestibule. It had an undercroft and a lead roof  There were superb internal paintings by Brother Richard. The exact site and orientation of this 'palace' is not certain. On the painting it is shown west to east at 90 degrees to the other Guest House blocks. It may have been north south  and situated at the southern end of the these blocks. Insufficient excavation prevents a clear picture of its exact position. I will be looking at examples of other halls built at the same time to try to get a better idea of what it may have looked like. I know from having spoken to Joan Freeman that she based the monastic buildings in her painting (see above) on examples in other monasteries, and not solely on archaeological evidence - because there isn't enough!

Site of the Guest Houses

Abbot John de Hertford (1235-63) also built a new major Guest House for the nobler guests on the east side of the Great Court. Little is known about this major Guest House, usually referred to as the South Guest House. It is where most guests who arrived by horse would have slept and been fed. 

In the second half of the 14^th century Thomas de la Mare had a North Guest House erected between the South Guest House and the south wall of the Church. It is not known whether there had been a building here before. This was presumably built to supplement the space offered in the South Guest House.

Interestingly Mayor Robert Shrimpton is said to remember (in the 16th century)"in the Abbey "there was a large Roome having Beds, set on either side for the receipt of Strangers and Pilgrims where they had Lodging and Diet for three days without question whence they came or whether they went, but after that time they stayed not without rendring an Account of both," 

Where this Roome was is unclear and its availability to all and sundry is also surprising.

The Abbot’s lodging was also used for receiving  important guests. It was Abbot Roger de Gorham who first built separate quarters attached to the southwest corner of the nave. It was renovated by Roger de Norton and John Moot and finally rebuilt by Thomas de la Mare.(1346-1396). John Moot (1396-1401) also built a necessarium (toilet)south of the lodging. I believe this was for the Abbot's lodging and there would have been separate toilets for the 'palatium' and Guest Houses described above.

The above summary is the conclusion from the incomplete 1889 archaeological evidence. In 1976 an aerial photo suggests the two Guest Houses in line at 90 degrees to the southwest end of the church as on the painting and another building set back which could be the rebuilt 'palatium'. The orientation of the latter is unclear.  During the Pandemic I often walked in the Orchard and several times stumbled over what seemed to be remains of the Guest House walls. Let's hope for another dig one day.

There was also a “Black Hostelry” for visiting Benedictines and a hospice for friars. The latter was built just before 1247. It surprises me because there was no mendicant  presence (Franciscan or Dominican) at St Albans and it seems that the Abbey made sure of this – perhaps by giving them hospice space? The Black Hostelry was in a three sided cloister with small garden built by Abbot William (1214-35). The exact location is unknown.

Site of the south side building on the Great Court

Abbot John de Hertford (1235-63) also built a long two storeyed stone building on the south side of the Great Court  opposite the earlier Great Gate which I suggest could have been used by the servants of the main guests or by the lay brothers of the Abbey or a limited number of the poor. There is  no archaeological evidence except for “some traces of old foundations” on Newcome’s sketch 1793 plan. It probably joined onto the Water Gate  and could have been on the site of the present Monastery Close.

Stables

These were along the west wall of the Great Court and according to Matthew Paris in 1252 could hold 300 horses.The Great Court must have been a very busy place! .

 Accommodation outside the Abbey

Guests seeking accommodation would have been received somewhere inside the Great Court, most probably by the Porter. and screened according to their requirements, status and what was available in the Abbey at that time. Pilgrims or persons on foot would likely not be accepted. The almonry situated by the Great Gateway might have  provided for some casual meals for those in need and might also have played a part in the reception of guests.  In some monasteries elsewhere  there was some provision every day for poorer people or pilgrims. This may have occurred here too  but most pilgrims were  referred to a nearby hostel or inns outside the precinct. The earliest of these may have offered free accommodation to pilgrims but it would likely have been in a hall sleeping together. The better inns would likely have required payment and I expect this got more expensive over the centuries up to the Dissolution. 

These hostels were  along the present George Street (then called Church Street) leading up to the Market Cross and later on developed down Holywell Hill, Some of these may have been founded by the Abbey or have financial links with them. We cannot prove that the Abbey actually caused any of them to be built. 

Abbot John's hostel today. Original front would include toilet block on left and The Bride shop

Abbot John de Hertford (1235-63)seems to have acquired a house on the corner of Spicer Street and George Street ffor use as  a guest house. It became known as the Tabard in 1545.Pilgrims may have been able to stay here free for a day and a night. It is the earliest recorded Inn in St Albans. Later it became known as the Antelope. 

The Tabard/Antelope

Unfortunately most of it was demolished in the 19^th century. There is a rear view showing a gallery of 14^th/15^th century date. Some local residents will remember it in the late 20th century as a shop called  the Tabard. Today it is a Wedding shop. At the rear of the shop is a tiny yard with what appears to be the remains of a well. With vivid imagination it may be possible to think of the original layout of the yard ...see belo

Tabard/Antelope rear  today

Tabard/Antelope rear today

Remnant of well behind Tabard/Antelope?

The George today

At the top of George Street in 1446 the George (then called the George upon the Hupe) belonged to Sopwell Nunnery. It was leased to John Duke of Exeter for 6 shillings a year. In 1484  a licence was granted by the Abbot to allow Low Mass to be celebrated there for the “benefit of such great men and nobles and others as should be lodged at the inn”.

Thai Tavern (Tudor Tavern/ Swan)

The present Thai Tavern (which I remember fondly as the Tudor Tavern and known in the 15th century as the Swan)) also belonged to Sopwell Nunnery.in the 1440s. The oldest part overhanging the street dates from about 1400 and there is an original style window upstairs.

The original style window

The Lyon, next to the Market Cross also belonged to Sopwell in the 1440s and was rebuilt by Abbot Wolsey and Professor James Clark reckons it was used by Wolsey’s visitors as well as wealthy pilgrims and visitors. Another Inn called the Pecock  paid its rent in 1506 to St Julian’s Hospital (on the site of my church : St Battholomew!)see earlier post..

Finally the White Hart Hotel  was probably a guest house for the nearby Abbey. In 1535 it was known as the Hartshorn and was being leased by the Abbot of St Albans to John and Elizabeth Broke (or Brooke).

The White Hart today

The Abbey could not deal with all guests so it was logical that it would seek to facilitate pilgrims and travellers outside the precinct. Helping such facilities to start and develop could brought income. Sopwell seems to have discovered that and it is possible that the Abbey did not also do so.

Selective sources

Kerr, J. Monastic hospitality : the Benedictines in England c1070-c1250 (Woodbridge,2007)

Mortimer, I. The Time-traveller's guide to Medieval England. (London, 2009)

Niblett. R. and Thompson, I. Alban's buried towns : an assessment of St Albans archaeology up to AD 1600. (2005)

 

Shrimpton, J. ed. by C.I.A. Ritchie The antiquities of Verulam and St Albans. (St Albans, 1966)

Many thanks also to Judy Fingland of the St Albans Cathedral Guides and Jon Mein of St  Albans and Hertfordshire Architectural and Archaeological Society)

Hospitality - how it worked

 

Hospitality was for Benedictines and Cistercians a central part of their duty and service to God. This could be for the sick, the pilgrim, travelling nobility, the King, or fellow monks.. What had started as a simple duty  might increasingly require a development of their infrastructure : buildings, officials and support staff. How did this work?

The Welcome  -Benedictine

How to welcome  a guest was included in the Rule of St Benedict. It should be enthusiastic and cheerful. There were basic procedures which would vary according to the size of the convent , its community and accommodation, and the status and requirements of the guest. At the point of entry  a  porter or other official would say “Deo gratias” and the visitor might then be greeted by a superior, who would bow to him, and then  pray with him. Distinguished guests might be welcomed by the Abbot or Prior or even the whole community. In 1182 at Bury for Abbot Samson’s installation guests were met with singing, bells and sound of an organ. There would be an opportunity to find out the reason for the visit, whether the guest had horses and servants. whether they required dinner. The guest might then be led away for prayer and have a reading said to him. If the community were not reciting the Office he might be taken into the church for prayer. Otherwise prayer was said in the vestry. He might then receive foot washing in the cloister and be greeted by the Guest Master, who would lead him to the Guest House. Only the Guest Master was supposed to speak to the guest. Originally the Rule had recommended the foot washing (and hand washing too by the abbot) but as hospitality grew this became impractical, without disrupting the monastic offices and the running of the convent. The Guest Master had to ensure the guest chambers were kept ready, clean and that the tablecloths, napkins, bed clothes were sweet and clean. At Bury the split between guests for the Abbot or the convent became more accentuated. It became more than one person’s job here and at other larger convents. Disputes could arise over who was to stand in for the Abbot when he was away.

To get the atmosphere of a Guest House I recommend this post from the Abingdon Blog. It shows the interior of this surviving Guest House. 

West guest house, Fountains Abbey
(Matt Cormack CC BY-NC 2.0)

The Welcome - Cistercian

In Cistercian houses the porter was not a layman and this monk was excused his canonical duties to act as the welcomer. He would say “Benedictus” and find out the reason for the visit, and explain the expected rules of behaviour. The guest might receive the kiss of peace and be sprinkled with holy water and led to the Guest House where he would meet the Guest Master. The latter decided where he will sleep and be served. Also he might arrange foot washing. The Guest Houses at Fountains Abbey built in the 1160s were the furthest separate buildings from the Church and had fireplaces, latrines and rose windows. It seems that a tour of the whole convent was not given at Fountains (contrary to Benedictine practice) because Cistercians generally wanted to keep visitors away from the inmates. When the guest facilities were renovated in the 14th century a new two storey Guest Hall was built. Servants were housed in different quarters to their master. 

(Interior of guest wing, Fountains Abbey Damian
Entwistle CC BY-NC 2.0)

At Beaulieu the accounts from 1270 help to show how it worked ; nobles, ecclesiastics and distinguished guests were entertained in the Guest House; 'decent' travellers of lesser rank who came in the morning stayed only to eat, and those after lunch to stay the night. The porter could select up to 13 poor people to stay the night. At Christmas time as many poor people as there were monks ibn the convenr could stay from Christmas Eve until after dinner on Boxing Day. Apparently provision was made for feeding women relatives but we do not know where they ate. 

Some monasteries could not always hope to accommodate all demands for hospitality. The poorer visitors would stay in the local town or village, perhaps with friends or relations. They might use a hostel provided by the monastery which provided limited free accommodation or use an inn, if they could afford it. 

 Food -  Benedictine and Cistercian

Visitors to Cistercian houses were  limited to the normal Cistercian food with no meat until after 1335.In Benedictine houses distinguished guests would have had meat in the 13th century. As guests were graded and given varying accommodation, so too would the food and drink have varied. This applied to both Benedictine and Cistercian  establishments. Types of bread served differed according to status. Only distinguished guests dining with the Abbot would have wine. Herrings were the most common fish served to all. More exotic fish would be reserved for the Abbot’s guests. 

Problems

The cost of hospitality could be heavy. At Beaulieu during the year 1270 guests consumed 12,500 loaves of hospice bread and 7500 of better convent bread, along with 8640 gallons of good beer, 6000 of mixed beer, hundreds of thousands of herrings,1600 mackerel and 850 hake! Various methods of redress might be tried : for example, Cistercian houses sometimes received permission to not to receive guests for a limited period.

It was good practice to watch that guests did not “accidentally” take away convent property.  A Prior at Dover complained of strangers “who were such wasteful destroyers that it is impossible to keep things in order…such noxious…followers, that packed up tablecloths, napkins, sheets and coverpanes and such things as they could lay hold of”. King John stayed at Bury for 10 days with his retinue and  left 13 pence and a silk cloth he had purloined from the sacrist for which he had  forgotten to pay.

Behaviour of guests could be problematic and Lanfranc in his rules enjoined the Guest master to prevent the wearing of riding boots, spurs or just drawers (!) in the cloister. It was all about avoiding disruption to the quiet atmosphere and rhythm of the liturgy.

Some sources

Bond, J. Monastic landscapes (Stroud, 2004)

Bottomley, F. Abbey explorer’s guide (Otley, 1995)

Braun, H. English abbeys {London, 1971)

Clark, J.G. Benedictines in the Middle Ages (Woodridge, 2011)

Cook, G.H. English monasteries in the Middle Ages (London, 1961)

Crossley, F.H. The English abbey 3^rd ed, (London,1949)

Greene, J.P. Medieval monasteries. (Leicester, 1992

Kerr, J. Monastic hospitality : the Benedictines in England c1070-c1250 (Woodbridge,2007)

Kerr, J. Life in the Medieval cloister (London, 2009)

Knowles, D. Religious Orders in England vol 1-3 (Cambridge, 2008)

Parry, A. ed. Rule of St Benedict (Leominster, 1990)

Rosewell, R The Medieval monastery (Oxford, 2011)

Williams, D.H. The Cistercians in the early Middle Ages (1998)